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Aquariums:
Needs Gravel, Vacuum, Filter, fake or live plants, decoration, water conditioners and such.
-When setting up, don't ever use soap to clean anything for the tank. Could be harmful to fish when there is soap residue.
-Wait 24 hours after completing set up for the water to cycle and get to room temperature
-Start with a few fish to let the filter get used to the biological load it has taken on.
-White cloudy water: particles from sand or gravel that just needs to settle, or bacteria bloom. 25% water change daily and feed less food until it clears up.
-Tropical fish usually require 72-78 degree F heat
-10 hours of light on. Light down 14 hours.
Filters:
Power Filter: Commonly used; best to get a two sided slider. Change one side then change another side some weeks later. That way you don't have to go through the cycle of getting the beneficial bacteria growth.
Sponge Filters: Good for bare bottom tanks with frequent water changes. Though beneficial bacteria grows in the sponge (which may be why the shrimp at work cling to the sponge).
Undergravel Filters: Old form of filter system. Dangerous if not enough gravel covering because it may suck in the fish. Also dangerous because if not gravel vacc'd properly, it may have hidden gas pockets that may be harmful to the fish.
Canisters: Three trays that can cover Mechanical, Biological, and Chemical filtering in the tank. Very pricey for that reason.
Protein Skimmers: Virtually useless in freshwater aquariums; useful in saltwater to take out dissolved organic material that may kill off your fish if not taken care of. Better to get one that hangs on the back of the tank so you can easily take out the cup daily or weekly. Get what you pay for when it comes to protein skimmers.
Powerhead: Used for water movement. Also useful in Undergravel filters to help with the flow. Helps with aeration and surface agitation. Good in saltwater tanks; use multiple to control water movement so that there are no dead zones. Keeps the food flowing around so the fish can eat it or let the mechanical filtration system get rid of it.
Sumps: An extra tank basically. Usually hidden and used to hide the big ugly equipment (filters and protein skimmers) and connected to the main tank by water lines. Not mandatory but really helps keeping the water system stable. Can also be used to add water supplements and such. Also helps keep beneficial algae in the tank uninterrupted.
Birds:
-Large birds like cockatoos and macaws have a hormonal "teen stage" where you don't know anything about the bird anymore and they're basically a little effing demon. D:< But it only lasts a year so it's all gee.
-Biting is a means of communication. You can tell the difference between angry and playful bite. there are signs to pick up on when it's an angry bite so try to abide by these warning signs. Discourage hard playful bites.
-Discourage screaming by not coming to them when they're screaming or even calling to them. "scream=you", they don't care if you like it or not.
-Finches and Canaries are highly active so they need a decently big cage or they'll be hyper, miserable things.
Guinea Pigs:
-No wheels or balls! Guinea pigs aren't flexible for it and have been crippled by it.
-apparently you can have two males together so long as a female isn't around
-need at least 2 different kinds of veggies a day (3-5 is better)
-NO potato peels, iceberg lettuce(diarrhea), cabbage(not good for system), raw beens, rhubard, nuts, seeds, and meat.
-an occasional treat of peeled grapefruit or other citrus fruit to get their vitamin c
Rabbits
-They should only get pellets, veggies, hay, and some fruit/carrots every once and a while
-always need stuff to chew on because their teeth is constantly growing
-can litter train rabbits, place it where THEY choose to go. Any stray feces or urine: soak it up and put it in the litter box. Use paper or wood pellets; NOT clay-based or corn. Put hay in litter box because they like to eat and poop at the same time.
-poops called cecals, and are soft, mushy, and shaped like blackberries are nutrients that they didn't get the first time. Should be eaten. If a lot is left around, something may be wrong.
-poops to mark territory
-feed fresh pellets (refrigerate to keep it lasting long as it can become stale and unappealing)
-ALWAYS have timothy hay available for it helps break down fur and teeth
-alfafa can be fed for 6 months and younger bunnies because it's fattening
-needs a little calcium in diet but too much can cause a urinary tract infection, no calcium will make the system pull it from its bones which will render the bunny weak
-Sweet potato, Cassava, Bamboo shoots, Maize, Lima beans, Millet, Bracken fern, Tea leaves, Coffee plants have compounds that can break down nutrients.
-avoid feeding legumes, chocolate, beets, breakfast cereal, corn, fresh peas, grains, green beens, iceberg lettuce, nuts, onions, pellets with seeds, potatos, starch, seeds, or sugar.
-litter box training is best
-organic litters, made from alfalfa, oat, citrus or paper
Chinchillas:
-15-20 years lifespan
-65 degree comfort, no warmer than 75. Without this could mean death
-Teeth always growing so need chews
-love running on wheels or saucers
-use carefresh for bedding
-because of their dense fur, they CANNOT get wet because they'll never dry
-dust baths are a need
 SikM808 · Tue Jan 25, 2011 @ 07:26am · 0 Comments |
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